Sexing Up Survival Food

My first piece for the finger-lickin’ good SmartMouth newsletter

For most of my life I thought scrambling and hash browning was the ultimate honor a cook could give eggs and potatoes. Then I went to Betanzos, Galicia, in the wet, verdant north-west corner of Spain, for its annual tortilla de patata festival.

Every tapas bar and cafe from Seville to Santander sells pale, dry wedges of tortilla…